How to Do Your Own Acrylic Nails at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide (2024)

• Krystell Barreto is a nail artist and V Beauty Pure ambassador.
• Evelyn Limis a nail artist and chief educator at the SoHo nail studio,Paintbox.
  

Do Your Research

Acrylic nails—both those done in a salon or created at home—come with their pros and cons. They may be sturdy and long-lasting, but they can be damaging to your nails if you don’t look for the right formulas, remove them improperly, or fail to give your nails a break from acrylics every now and then.

"Although nails can seem very simple and 'not a big deal,' at the end of the day you are still working with chemicals. It’s wise to be aware of how you could put yourself at risk and how to safely avoid it," explains Barreto."One of the most common things you’ll hear about acrylic nails is 'the smell.' Typically the chemicals in the nail monomer is what can create the strong odor. Some brands offer a 'low odor monome' which can be helpful, but I’ve heard it can affect your curing time when you’re laying the acrylic bead." When using a monomer, it's safest to wear a mask and increase the air circulation in the room either with a fan, window, or air purifier.

Purchase an Acrylic Nail Kit (or Buy Supplies Separately)

If you’ve never done your own acrylic nails before, your best bet is to start with an all-inclusive kit as it will contain everything you need to get the job done—including detailed instructions. "V Beauty Pure Beginner Kit is a great place to start as it includes three acrylic powder shades, monomer, top coat and primer," notes Barreto. The big thing to remember when shopping for acrylic kits is that you don’t want tips made with MMA (methyl methacrylate), as it’s tough, inflexible, and may cause an adverse reaction, which can mean bad news for your nail beds. Instead, look for EMA (ethyl methacrylate), which is considered to be a safer alternative.

Once you become more attuned to the process, however, you may find that buying supplies individually suits you better, as it makes it easier to find acrylic tips that perfectly complement your natural nail shape. Plus, if you stock up on full-size products (as opposed to the minis that usually come in kits), you’ll be fully prepared to touch up your acrylics at the two-week mark instead of having to head to the store to do so. "I would recommend investing in good quality products because they will save you time, money, and sanity in the long run!" adds Barreto.

If stocking your nailcare arsenal with individual products sounds more convenient for your manicure needs, order or pick up the below:

• Nail clippers
• Coarse nail file (preferably 180/100 grit)
• Cuticle pusher or orangewood stick
• Acrylic nail tips
• Nail tip glue
• Acrylic nail dehydrator
• Acrylic nail primer
• Acrylic liquid monomer
• Acrylic powder
• Acrylic brush (size 10 is a great starter size) and bowl for mixing
• UV or LED lamp

Thoroughly Prep Nails

1. Remove any old polish: Just as you would with any manicure, you must start by prepping your nails. First, remove any old nail polish. If you have gels, take the time to really soak them off so as to not cause unnecessary damage to your nail before applying acrylics.
2. Push cuticles back (but don't cut them): Next, gently push your cuticles back.
3. Trim nails: Once your nail polish is fully removed and your cuticles are pushed back, trim your nails to just beyond the smile line (aka the end of your nail). You want your nails to be short since your acrylic tips will be attached to them and if you try to attach them to long nails, your natural nail could snap off, causing your acrylic to as well.
4. Buff nails: After clipping, file your nails so that they’re even and don’t have any snags. From there, buff each nail so that your acrylic tips will have something to grip on to.

Size & Apply Acrylic Nails Using Acrylic Nail Glue

Depending on the kit you get, you’ll have a variety of different acrylic tip sizes, widths, and lengths to choose from—just as you would with press-on nails. Because of this, you need to go through the sizes to find the ones that best fit your tips. If there are no perfect fits, use your nail file to gently file them to the correct width.

According to nail expert Evelyn Lim, tips used for acrylic application have an indent on the inside of the tip—which is approximately 2-3 mm at most—and the free edge of your natural nail should fit right underneath. "It is best to trim the natural nail short prior to application," she advises. Once you’ve selected your acrylic tips, apply them one at a time with a dot of acrylic nail glue. You want the bottom edge of the acrylic tip to be centered about one-third of the way down your nail so that it will remain sturdy as your nails begin to grow out. Apply pressure to the nail for five to 10 seconds to ensure that it’s secure and move on to the next tip until all 10 are complete.

Shape Your Newly-Adhered Acrylic Tips

After securing all of your acrylic tips in place, use nail clippers and a file to shape them accordingly. (Check out our nail shape guide if you need inspo.) If you find that there’s a noticeable line where the tip is applied, you can buff it down to create a more even surface.

Apply a Dehydrating Nail Primer

Now that your tips are applied and shaped to your liking, make sure you have all of your acrylic kit materials in front of you. Whether you’re using a kit or individual supplies, you’ll need to pour your liquid acrylic into the acrylic dish. Just keep in mind that acrylic has pretty strong fumes, so be sure to open a window while you’re performing this DIY process.

Once your materials are organized, it’s time to bring your acrylic manicure to life. Start by dehydrating your natural nails (to get rid of any moisture that could prevent the acrylic mixture from sticking) and priming your full nails, painting from just beyond the cuticle all the way to the tip of your acrylics (the Modelones Nail Prep Dehydrator & Nail Primer, $13, set will make it easy). This will help your acrylic mixture better adhere to your nails and tips.

Coat Your Nails With the Acrylic Mixture

Dip your acrylic brush into your bowl of monomer, tap some on the side so as to not over-saturate your brush, and dip into your clear powder. This process will create the perfect bead of acrylic—as opposed to a drippy or dry one—which you can then apply to the nail. Start just above your cuticle and extend the mixture all the way to the end of your acrylic tip. When applying, be sure to smooth out to the edges of your nails and wipe your brush off on a paper towel between each stroke to avoid clumps.

Repeat this process on each nail to create a smooth base. Follow up with the same process using the acrylic powder color of your choice. If you want the look of a shiny topcoat, finish with a thin encapsulation layer of acrylic mixture. Keyword: Thin. You don’t want to add loads of bulk to your nail.

Let the Acrylic Dry

Keep in mind that acrylic is temperature-sensitive. "Something I learned the hard way is your room temperature can completely change the way your acrylic application goes!" says Barreto. "The cold will make your beads set slower. The hotter the room, the faster they will set. I personally like to keep my room anywhere from 68-72°F."

That said, as you begin learning how to DIY your nails, it’s best to opt for a cooler space so you can perfect the acrylic before it dries. It should take around 10 minutes. "If it’s too cold, you can put on a heater so the acrylic sets faster," adds Barreto. The best way to tell if your acrylics are dry is to gently tap them. If they create a clicking sound, you’re good to go.

Finish With Final Shaping

Now that your acrylic is applied and dried, it’s time to touch up the edges. Since you already cut your preferred shape, simply file along the edges and tip for a picture-perfect acrylic nail look.

Prep for the Removal Process

The removal process for acrylic nails can be done in various ways. According to Barreto, the simplest way is to file the acrylic down (being very careful not to file the natural nail itself) so it can grow out and get clipped off. Remember, under no circ*mstances whatsoever should you pull your acrylic nails off.

Alternatively, Barreto walks us through the soaking method for full removal:

1. If you have nail embellishments like crystals, charms, or piercings, start by removing them.
2. Clip off any unwanted free edge.
3. Using a hand file or e-file, carefully file off as much acrylic as possible without getting too close to the nail plate. (Barreto prefers to leave a thin layer so the natural nail isn't harmed.)
4. Soak nails in an acetone-filled bowl for 10 minutes. (Alternatively, you can wrap an acetone-soaked cotton pad over and around each nail and wrap it with foil. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes.)
5. Remove the lifted product with a scraping tool or cuticle pusher.
6. Repeat as needed until most or all product is removed.

"I like to finish my soak offs with doing a Russian manicure to clean up the cuticles," adds Barreto. "Then buff the nails to get rid of any scratches. Apply cuticle oil and you’re all set!"

Reflect for Next Time

Now that you've gotten the first at-home acrylic process out of the way, you can reflect and better prepare yourself for the second time around. "Every time you create a nail set, take some time to really examine the details of your work to see what you did well and what could be better," explains Barreto. "If your nail breaks or something goes wrong, investigate the situation so you can try to pinpoint 'why' did this happen and how can you avoid it next time."

1. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Nail care products. Updated February 25, 2022.

2. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to trim your nails. Published February 12, 2019.